Across the Garagum Desert - Turkmenistan

Following our much enjoyed rest stop in Mashad we are up with the lark to drive the 200 kms to the border in the mountains between Iran and Turkmenistan. These mountains are a natural barrier between Iran and the north and appear fairly impenetrable for an army which is probably why both countries have had stable borders for years.

Exiting Iran takes a lot longer than getting in and we spend most of the day at the border clearing into Turkmenistan just before it closes at 1800. The Turkmans have taken bureaucracy to a new level, there are form upon form to complete all with a cost for which there is of course, a receipt. Some 200 dollars poorer and carrying a sheaf of official papers, receipts, insurance documents and the like we are finally allowed through once everyone has had their photo taken in the Bentley.

Our first sight of Ashkabad reminds us of just how gilded this city is, gold statues everywhere although the one of Turkmenbashi which has him rotating with the sun has been pulled down in the couple of years since he died. Apparantly it is being relocated to the 'hills'. So much for the 'beloved leader' of the Turkmans. However, the new president is having his own palace built so he does not have to use the old presidents !. Along with this every building is magnificent, if empty, and the billions spent on the trophy capital is beyond comprehention.

Having got totally lost in the new construction of yet another massive complex we finally arrive at the hotel, which in itself is extraordinary. It reminds me of the Versace hotel in Labrador on the Australian Gold Coast although the latter is a poor reproduction in reality. It is enormous, all marble and gold and looks as though it would cost a fortune to stay in. However it is run by Sofitel and is in fact quite cheap for a room. The same cannot be said of drinks, a beer was over 20 USD !, A bottle of wine at supper 100 USD but worth it for the view from the top floor restuarant.

Early departure to travel to Mary or Merv as it was called in the time of the Great Game. This was one of the cities the Russians invaded and captured with a view to launching an attack on the British through Afghanistan. Mary is very ordinary but does have a small bling area as in Ashkabad but much smaller. For us it is notable only for the fact we met three cyclists there, a German and Frenchman cycling to Singapore and a young Scottish lad, Roibbie, cycling around the world with his guitar and a small cycle trailer. How these people motivate themselves to ride evrytday at 20 km/hour for endless miles is totally beyond us but they are true heroes.

Robbie had been knocked off his bike by a tractor this day on the appalling road from Ashkabad on which we had spent all day bouncing, bumping, grinding and swearing at it. The lad wants to give up and backpack as the accident broke his handlebars and more importantly his guitar. Coupled to this the day before he had slept in a Mosque and someone had stolen his size 12 1/2 shoes, heavens knows why as there is no one out here with feet that big. Hopefully we persuaded him to rest and think on things for a day or two before abandoning bike and trailer.

As I mentioned the road was atrocious and is definately top of the worse road league thus far.

Our stay in Turkmenistan is almost at an end, from Mary we cross the Garagum Desert to the North to pass over the Bailey bridge ond on into Uzbekistan south of Bukhara.

The road is much better thank heavens although we have a very severe incident about half way when I more or less lost control of the car as we crossed some corrugations at speed and the steering couldn't cope with the front wheels bouncing so much. Pretty scary sluing across the road out of control. Luckily no other cars on the road at the time.

Anyweay we press on past camels, sand, sand and more sand until we reach Turkmenibad in the north of the country. From here we cross over a tributary of the the Oxus on the same bailey bridge we used in 2000, nothing changed except the toll which is now 14 USD. Guess there are not enough cars and lorries over 11 years to pay for a proper bridge !

It is a very strange approach to the Uzbek border, miles from anywhere and we arrive 1 minute after they have shut for lunch at 1230. So sweltering heat 44 Celsius in the queue whilst we wait for the border to re-open. The Bentley is swamped and David and I give up trying to stop people crawling all over it. However the people are really just enthusiastic and not of any threat to the vehicle at least not intentionally.

Finally the border re-opens at 1400 and we spend three hours clearing out and then into Uzbekistan, We then speed the 90 kms to Bukhara on a pretty good road and into the bar to drain the hotel of beer before supper. The hottest day so far and 12 hours in the sun gives one a big thirst, huge even. By midnight we have added several bottles of Uzbek white wine, not bad considering, and several Uzbek Cognacs, also not bad but the cause of a violent hangover the next morning !

So here we are in Bukhara, what a fantastic place toi visit, more on Uzbekistan shortly. I am still unable to upload photos so for now this is all you are getting, the inteligent stuff just like the Economist, no colour pictures !



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